On Friday January 13, 2023 I made my way to south San Diego where I found my friend and former WCT surfer Damien Hobgood all alone out in some XXL surf. When I was setting up a few surfers were coming in and they had told me that one surfer out there by himself was Damien. From the shore I saw multiple unridden waves, but to Damos defense seeing waves from the shore is one thing and being out in them is a whole nother ball game. The waves were huge and he seemed to be riding to small of a board - he was constantly all over the place and with so much water moving along with the clean up sets Damien made the best of it.

Photos by Jack English using a Canon 600mm with Kodak portra print film

Not sure who this is, but I had just set up and this guy dropped in and I missed that whole part of the wave - I shot only this one shot, but I think it's cool showing the explosion of white water

What size would you call this wave, 20ft face? - That's Damien pushing through

Chris Ward making his way out of San Clemente with his daughter Malia

It's safe to say Damien waited over an hour for something he could get into


"A' for effort Damo - you got a workout this day (look at the wave marching in from behind)

January 20, 2023 — Jack English